Thursday, February 12, 2015

Whyyyy!

The first thing you'd notice upon conversing with a Burkinabe (presumably in any language, but more often with women in villages than say, the Peace Corps staff in Ouaga) is that they use a lot more sounds than we do, for exclamation and to indicate that they're listening.

For example, the two most common are simply "uh huh" and "eh!" indicating agreement and (somewhat displeased) surprise, respectively.
I wish I was sharing this in person because you'd be able to hear that even though I've spelled them the same way I would spell "uh huh" and the stereotypical Canadian "eh," they're veryyyy different.

Say "uh huh" to yourself as though you were casually agreeing with someone (in your head if you want). Notice how both syllables are about the same length (although a bit more emphasis on the second), and the tone kinda goes up or stays the same at the end?
The Burkinabe "uh huh" is much more dramatic sounding - it's a quick "uh" followed by the drawn out "huuuuh" which actually goes down at the end. It's also used just periodically throughout a conversation to be like "yeah, I follow."

As for "eh," it sounds less like "eh?" and more like a startled "hey!" (like when you see a dog or child doing something wrong and you want to catch their attention) - but without the "h." It's used in those animal/child contexts, but also just in general conversation.

But now we come to my favorite....the only way I can think of to spell it is "whyyy!" and it's kind of a high pitched, drawn out sound. But the best part is that it sounds just like a reeeeally dramatic "why" in English, and I'd say it's used to indicate astonished confusion.

I'm going to share the story of the first time I heard it, but keep in mind that some of my neighbors like to practice the bits of the English that they remember from school with me - usually it's about as basic as the Mooré I know (i.e., greetings and phrases like "I go to the market").

This was before Christmas, and my neighbor Rosalie was asking about my plans for the break (in French obviously):

Rosalie: What are you doing for New Years?
Me: Oh, I'll be here!
Rosalie: Whyyyy!! 
[she is so astounded at this it's insane]
Me: Well I'm going to Fada on the 1st, so I figured I'd stay here the 31st. You?
Rosalie: Well! I'm going to Ouaga. Oueguedo is not interesting.
[I'm fighting laughter here]

So that's it for that conversation but you see that I actually thought she was asking "why" (in English)?

It wasn't until a couple weeks later when I told my 5eme class that, yes, they DID need to know this information for the test, that I realized it was just a general sound of astonishment. Once I did, I could not stop laughing and so I had to explain to them that every time they said "whyyy!" I was hearing a pretty distressed "pourquoi," which is just amusing to hear from one's students.

Note: These kiddos have now had a year and a half of English classes, so they do know that "pourquoi" in English is "why" - although I did spell it out for them on the board just in case.

--

While "whyyy!" is my favorite because it sounds so much like "why" in English, and it's used at a time when "why" in English would be fairly appropriate, the "uh huh" is what I consider a fluency sound. Not only does it make you sound more like a Burkinabe, but you can use it in conversations when you kinda understand the gist, and whoever you're talking to will think you reeeeally understand. :)

PS: This is most applicable when people extend the Mooré greetings too far and exceed my vocabulary. Greetings usually include asking about someone's day, health, and family, and they can include house and work...but if it goes beyond even that, I don't really have to know what specifically they're asking about to know the answer's gonna be yes.

The end for now!
xo, chlo

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Journeys and Homecomings

As most of you probably know, I was home a couple weeks ago for my sister's wedding!!! It was a pretty packed week, but so so wonderful!!
Here are some highlights/observations from the trip there and the trip back.

The journey (yes, I quite like calling it a journey):
30 min bike ride
3.5 hr bus ride
6 hr flight
11 hr flight
3 hr flight
1 hr car ride

JOURNEY 1
1. I knew I was off to a good start when all the teachers at my school stopped by my house after their morning classes on Friday to wish me a bon voyage and to give me a gift to pass on to the happy couple!! They are too sweet.
Also my homologue and my director took me out for dinner in Tenkodogo, again just to wish me a bon voyage. It was really fun and too nice of them.

2. Both in Ouaga and JFK people asked me to help them with their customs forms. Apparently I have "yes I would love to help you" written all over my face.

3. It wasn't until I arrived at the Istanbul airport and saw the standard airport architecture (i.e., lots of glass) that I realized how little glass there is in my life...literally only when I'm having lunch at a nice hotel or doing work in the Peace Corps office do I see glass windows. Weird.

4. So to leave the Istanbul airport, obviously I needed a visa - $30 cash at the desk with a person, or $20 with a credit card at an automated kiosk. Apparently their kiosks only take credit cards with a chip in them, and my bank missed the memo and so denied my attempt to withdraw cash. At this point I had no working cell phone (only Burkina phones with no service), so I took turns with a couple other people on a courtesy phone, and spent over an hour trying to fix the problem. Luckily for me, when the bank's customer service was closed for the weekend, my parents came through and saved the day!!! (At 2am their time, no less!)

5. I'm officially obsessed with Istanbul. I will spare you the details but it's beautiful and the people are really nice and if you're lucky a 50 year old man will invite you to drink tea with him and his friends outside their rug store.

HOMECOMING 1
1. Pretty sure anyone on my flight into New Orleans thought it was my first time on a plane. We landed right before sunset and took the loop around the city, so my face was smushed to the window for a solid twenty minutes.

2. After a joyous welcome and a delicious sushi dinner, I was home and found out my parents had left Christmas up for me!!!! I'm sure postponing the job was a nice silver lining of that ;)

JOURNEY 2
1. It was a bit crazy, but my first attempt to head back on Monday was foiled by a cancelled flight, so the next chance I had wasn't until Wednesday. On Wednesday, between a delayed first flight and a problem finding me in Turkish Air's system, I wasn't sure I'd make my flight from JFK. ll I could think was, "if I don't make this flight, peace corps is going to start thinking I'm doing it on purpose..." But I made it!!! Last person on the plane, but made it!

2. The Turkish Airlines flight attendants chose to greet me in Turkish, while I heard them greeting other people in English. Apparently my "sure, I totally understand you face," usually reserved for conversations in French and Mooré (a) works a little too well, and (b) is now just how my face looks. Either that or I just look Turkish, I guess.

3. Stayed in Ouaga to do my quarterly report, but after an absurd amount of computer problems, ended up having to stay an extra night there to get it done. Went to the bus station Sunday for the 10:30 bus, but it was full so I had to wait until the 1:30... I was afraid it would be dark by the time I got to Tenkodogo (we're not allowed to travel at night, and I still had the bike ride ahead of me), but I had class Monday at 7am so I didn't have much of a choice. I figured I could stay in Tenkodogo if I had to, and bike reeeeally early Monday morning, but as it turns out it wasn't necessary! 

HOMECOMING 2
1. Did my standard waves and greetings on the way to my village and everyone seemed so excited to see me!!! And THEN as I got close, some of my neighbor kids (3 boys, ages 8-15) came and met me and we made a cute little parade back to my house!!!

2. Not five minutes after they left, I heard Claude and Claudine shouting my name from the walkway and running to see me! And then Nadez and Isa came too!!

So to sum it all up:
1. It was an epic journey (both ways)
2. I love Istanbul
3. It was so unbelievably good to be home
4. I need to keep taking vacations if only to enjoy the adorable and heartwarming welcome back committee

The end! More village updates soon!
xo, chlo